One week in and I’m at the stage when I can count the number of hours sleep I get each night on one hand. Tomorrow will offer no respite as I head onwards to India. The upside of being in Vietnam is the food, which is as fresh as a daisy and tastier than any other cuisine I know. When I was here in February we saw fields of perfect little lettuces growing up near Vịnh Hạ Long. A single leaf, combined with Vietnamese basil (known here as húng quế), is used to wrap crispy spring rolls. Simple, delicious and not like anything we get at home.